Saturday, July 2, 2011

Long Weekend who haw''

Lots of these on the hwy, but none so perfect.

Day 46, Trois Pistoles - Amqui
Dist, 180 km, Avg. 24.3km/hr, Saddle Time 7:25
A great day to ride into Rimouski. I stopped for lunch at the Subway and some map time. Was feeling frustrated about accommodations (camp vs. motel) Called the big sister to rant. Anyway... lots here, but rolled on. I was hoping to make this a short day and get some camping time. After riding the remainder of the Saint Lawrence I headed up to "Mont Joli". The Tourism info centre was very little help. French language is rule #1, even in a Federal institution.  Apparently, there is a hotel on Jacques Cartier St. I went up and down that stupid hill twice and stopped to ask at two shops where the hotel was. One business was a flower shop with a very beautiful female clerk. The eye candy doesn't materialize often. A welcome sight indeed.  Unfortunately, beauty is no help. I got pretty angry looking for this Hotel and decided to bail and head east. It was a hot day with hills. Easy enough route, but I wanted to Veg. There's something special about riding along the St. Lawrence. I will miss it.
Anyway, I got a site in Amqui. A hotel room with no windows. But a small sky light. Interesting...
Looking forward to returning to Canada in New Brunswick....
I guess that I just missed Will and Kate (Royal couple) in Quebec. Boo Hoo.
morning road
Lovely Quebec landscape...
Bike through Rimouski along the St. Lawrence
Disappearing St Lawrence. 

Not the kind of Submarine that I normally snack on. Oberon-class sub that served the Royal Canadian Navy. Built in the 1960's. Decommissioned in 2000. It was purchased and preserved as a museum vessel. I didn't go in, had a bike ride to do ya know. This stop was only 2 km offf track, so I thought that I would have a gander.
Red
HWC in a strange world...
St Lawrence River
Mural.

Very dominating structure entering this town. There must be more churches in Quebec than the  rest of planet Earth. They like the Godders hear big time for Christ sake.   

Lovely picnic area. I was in need of a "sandbox" The park guy had just finished cleaning. Mmmmm fresh toilet seat. ..ha ha
Rock'n town
It'l do


Crappy dark room with no windows. Perfect.

My skylight...
Shoe Goo party. I hope these "Northwaves" make it to the Atlantic
Amqui camping

View Larger Map   A long Hot day

Friday, July 1, 2011

Devil Horn Salute !

Day 45, Montmagny - Trois-Pistoles
Dist, 188 km (inc. riding around town), 23.3km/hr Avg. Saddle Time 8 hrs.

July 1, Canada Day. Vive Le Canada ! 
A great day to ride.
Good weather. Nice roads. Interesting towns. Lots of cyclists and everyone else for that matter on the road today. There was Farmer Brown riding along on his rusty barn bike, there was Marianne and Danielle Beauchamp riding carefree on their old school bikes in plain clothes with hair in the wind.(This, I like), also, the local bike club of "roadies"in full colours and a few Touring Keeners. Canada Day by Bike , literally.  Cool as Hell.  The roads twisted and turned and had a small hill now and again. There was some light rain, very light winds, some head, some tail. (that sounds bad).
Then, something extremely cool happened...Cool part aside, I see a ton of motorbikes on the road. Some travel solo, sometimes in  pairs. Often I see groups of chrome horses. Sometimes these beasts are pulling trailers that will, at some point be parked between trees or maybe in an empty field to be opened up into a grand camping tent. Awesome. Very often, motorcyclists pass me in the opposite direction and give me a wave of acknowledgement or at least a "Double-take". At first, this wave of acknowledgement would piss me off. I thought to myself; how could they possibly understand my highway scenario ? They are sitting on a motor. Effortless motion. No comparable discomfort at all. Yes, there is the exposure to weather and traffic, but again, no comparison to the level of discomfort, pain and uncertainty of bicycling in inhospitable conditions. Eventually, I would understand, but was never comfortable with it. But this day saw a motorbike of a different kind.
I will never know how many bikes passed me, but it was certainly enough to make my tired face smile. It was a very long stretch of flat blacktop. I could hear the rumbling behind me. My I Pod Nano Playlist of old school metal could not drown out the screams of the many Four Bangers.
I'm comfortable with:
                                  5 Harleys passing me.
                                  10 Harleys
                                  20 Harleys
                                  30 Harleys...
I didn't count, but there was a significant number of bikes passing me. Actually, there was so many bikes that it must have taken 10 minutes for the last machine to whirl by.(probably not) The thing that made this experience so amazing was not the bikes themselves or the number of bikes, but it was the behaviour of each and every rider that passed me.
At first I thought that it was nothing but a gesture to the following rider, but soon after, I realized that it was for me ! Imagine this, if you can. One hundred rumbling Harleys passing you and as they pass you, they raise both arms in the air, then slowly lower them as they pass. At first, I thought that this was something else, but, as it continued for the duration of all the bikes, it was more than obvious that it was for me. It doesn't sound like a big deal, but at the time, it was truly amazing. Words alone cannot describe.  A huge " Devil Horn Salute "to me, the lonely rider of the Trans Canada.  Ride on...
At the 130 k mark, I arrived at Riviere Du Loup. Nice place, but yesterday was a short effort and it was only 4 pm, so after some Burger King grease, I headed out.
                  At one point, I came upon a nasty road closure. My main route (#132 East) was shut down by construction) Its a holiday, so, the crew is gone except for a weathered lady directing traffic. Traffic witch sent from Hell to guide humans. She was french only, and therefore, no help to me. I flagged a motorist in desperation. There was no reasonable route around this blood clot unless you were in a car. Luckily, I was able to get by through some residential properties.
By the time I got to Trois Pistoles, my camping plan failed, and I got stuck in a "Nice on the outside, shit on the inside Hotel" Severely ripped off. I could've went with my gut and got the 'El Cheapo Motel "enterring the town. Idiot ! From now on, I wanna see the room before paying. F#*^ ! ( PS. dont stay at " Hotel Trois Pistoles") Its a cool little old town though.
I had a really good pizza at the restaurant. Highwaycat won't eat pizza, too messy...
HWC is bagged
Terrible on big climbs, but loaded with character and style

Fantastic rest stop. My first introduction to Quebecers hiking with Hiking staffs. A strange, but common practice here.

These birds were very still and silent.

Cycling friendly

Local bike club
At the waterfall...
Predictably, HWC is unimpressed

A lone Iron Horse blurrrs by
I'm here someplace 

Major bird sanctuary areas

Nice bird viewing area. Move, dammitt. 

Local habitat
She's very good
This lovely woman had no sandwiches

Colourful neighbourhood.  

Blue Bird. The 2 dimensional one

More colourful street art
Lovely cycling
Another great rest stop with food. I had my own vittles though, thanks anyway.

I don't look thrilled, but I was OK. HWC was whining all day.
Big Red. Hey, I recognize that bike !

Less than perfect, yet perfect road.

Ummmmm...
HWC is not happy on this very odd and disturbing structure in a field halfway from somewhere to nowhere.

Ya, lets visit. Holy strangeness !
Other bike tourers ahead. They were a bit disorganized and a tad unfriendly. I said Hello and motored on.

Entering a town with it's welcoming art. Not sure where this is.

Awesome road Graffiti.
Bad news


I was able to get by on foot.
Nice cloud ensemble 

Lovely Museum

Trois Pistoles street scene
My cramped overpriced jail cell

HWC was not fazed

Without a fridge, this was my cooling station. The air conditioner

The crowded creepy hallway

Overpriced piece of shite. There was camping nearby, but I bailed on that idea, so I guess I shouldn't bitch, eh ?

View Larger Map   Lovely Canada Day ride !